Step #1./ READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL !

Step # 2./ READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL !

Step # 3./ READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL !

Step # 4./ READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL !

Step # 5./ READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL !

This will save you time, trouble and possibly unnecessary damage to your Corvette. Now that we have covered that, let’s begin

DON”T LOSE TRACK OF YOUR CORVETTE

You will need ; paper, pen or pencil, black marker, masking tape to mark items that are removed, ZipLok bags and wire ties.

Just a bit of personal advice, take pictures of everything, before you start, and every step of the way. With today’s digital technology, you can take 500 pictures and only keep what you want. MORE IS BETTER & SIZE DOES COUNT!!! Get close to what you are trying to remember, so that when you need it, it is just a click away.

Whenever possible, replace nuts, bolts, fasteners or straps back in the same place and direction that they came from. If this is not possible, then put them in ZipLok bags and mark what they are and the location that they came from and the picture #. Use a marker to draw a diagram on the bag.

CORVETTE – SAFETY FIRST

Disconnect all (Factory and Aftermarket) Cables and Wires from the Battery. Carefully remove the Battery from the Corvette. This will prevent accidental arching while removing the Body.

TOOLS NEEDED FOR THE CORVETTE

Quality heavy duty hydraulic floor jack – 4 heavy duty jack stands Body lifting device and straps – engine hoist – assorted hand tools

THE REAR OF THE CORVETTE

Remove the exhaust tips (if under car), license bezel and the rear exhaust body panel. While there, remove the 3 wires from the sending unit on the bottom of the gas tank. Pull them back through the frame until they hang free from the body. Do the same with the overflow hose that runs through the bottom of the passenger side bumper. If the Corvette is equipped with a radio, disconnect the antenna ground from the frame, remove the rear bumpers and ALL of the bumper brackets, making sure that you keep any shims with the bracket it was with.

THE FRONT OF THE CORVETTE

Remove the front bumpers, grille and ALL of the bumper brackets, again keeping any shims with the proper brackets. While there, remove the 2 lower radiator support bolts, drain the radiator and remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator. Both the upper and lower radiator hose can remain attached to the motor.

THE SIDES OF THE CORVETTE

Remove the rocker panel molding's by removing the 2 Phillips head screws in the front and rear of the molding. Then remove the 7 Phillips head screws on the underside of the rocker panel molding's. Gently pull the bottom of the molding out and away from the body, while at the same time lifting straight up towards the door. This action will release the molding from the hanger it is suspended from.

If the Corvette has sidepipes the first thing to be removed is the upper trim that is held in place with 2 Phillips head screws in the front and rear of the molding. When this molding is removed, it will expose the 5 Phillips head screws that hold it in place. There is also a front bracket attached to the bottom rear of the front wheelwell.

UNDER THE HOOD OF THE CORVETTE

Remove the hood from the Corvette by removing the 2 - 7/16” bolts from the top of the hood support bracket and let it rest on the inner fender. Remove the 3 – ½”bolts on each side of the bottom of the hood, and leave the hinges attached to the inner fender. Replace the bolts in the hood for reinstallation when finished.

Remove the upper radiator hose and the expansion tank overflow hose from the radiator. Then remove the top radiator hold down bracket, fan, fan shroud and then carefully remove the radiator. Pull the A frame dust covers out and up from between the upper A frames, and lay them on top of the A frame.

On an air conditioned Corvette it will be necessary to break the lines at the back of the compressor, or to unbolt the compressor from the motor and secure it to the inner fender as a unit with the lines still attached.

Disconnect the plug and 2 wires (7/16” &5/16”) from the alternator. Wire tie the wires to the inner fender, securely out of the way. Remove just the distributor shielding. Disconnect the wires going to the temperature sending unit, coil and choke. Feed them back towards the cowl and slip them under the wiper blade to keep them out of the way.

Wipe master cylinder and lines clean. Wrap a cloth around the line(s) about 6 inches below the fittings. Secure the cloth by wrapping tape around them. This will stop fluid from running down while the line(s) are disconnected. Disconnect the brake line(s) from the master cylinder. Cover the fitting(s) with a clean cloth. Wrap tape around the cloth to keep dirt out of the system. Gently move lines away from master cylinder to avoid catching them when body is raised. Unplug the brake warning wire from the equalizer if so equipped.

Unbolt and remove ONLY the upper bolt (this bolt will require a ½”, 12 point socket or box wrench) in the steering column rag joint.

Remove the clutch return spring attached to the column mounting plate on the cowl. On 63-66, remove the bolt from the clamp securing the column to the cowl mounting plate. Remove the column mounting plate from the cowl and let it slide down to the rag joint.

On a standard shift Corvette, the “Z” bar assembly is attached to the frame just behind the steering column. Remove the spring clip from the bottom of the clutch rod, and then completely remove the adjustment assembly from the clutch rod and “Z” bar assembly.

Remove the tach drive cable from the bottom of the distributor.

Disconnect the oil line from the fitting on the back of the motor with a 7/16” open end, and a 5/16” line wrench and carefully tie it back to the cowl. On a small block, it is behind the distributor, just before the bellhousing. On a big block it will be on the outside of the filter housing.

Remove the spring from the throttle rod at the carburetor, and the cotter pin from the accelerator lever, to remove the throttle rod. Wire tie the accelerator lever back to the cowl. Remove the hexhead bolt that holds the braided ground wire from the accelerator lever.

ON THE INSIDE OF THE CORVETTE

On a standard shift Corvette, remove the Console Plate, Shifter Boot, shift ball and T handle.

Remove the steering column by removing the 2 Phillips head screws that secure the flange to the instrument cluster. Next, unbolt the column mounting bracket under the cluster. As you remove the support, be sure to hold up the column until it is completely removed. An easy way to do this is with a cardboard box and a couple of pillows. 63-66 will use a U-bolt thru a stamped steel bracket with a nut and bolt on each side. 67 will have 3 bolts that bolt directly into the pedal bracket. There will be enough slack in the wires to allow you to remove the steering column shaft from the rag joint. When all of the brackets are removed, allow the column to drop slowly until you can see that it will clear the cluster if pulled back. At this point hold on to the jacket of the column, below the turn signal housing. DO NOT PULL IT BACK BY THE WHEEL ! Gently pull the column towards the drivers seat back, while another person taps on the top of the rag joint, just above the slotted shaft. The steering column shaft should slide out of the rag joint, allowing the column to rest on the seat and pillows.

If the Corvette is a convertible, remove the 2 door sill trim plates on the top of the rocker panels. Remove the body mount bolt in the center of the rocker panel that was hidden by the sill trim plates.

Remove the 2 body plates, approx. 3X6, that face the front of the rear wheels. They are held on by 4 hexhead screws and sealant putty. They will probably have to be gently pried loose. Remove the 2 body bolts that are behind these plates.

UNDER THE CORVETTE

Jack the Corvette up to a comfortable height and secure it on a good set of jack stands that are capable of handling the weight and will not slip.

Remove the 2 large splash pans that are attached to the bottom of the drivers and passengers floor and frame with 2 screws on the frame, and 3 screws to the floor. The 2 smaller splash pans are located at the rear of the front wheel. They are attached with 2 bolts thru the bottom of the side vents, and 2 bolts to the bottom rear of the front fender skirt.

Remove the 2 front body mounts located at the outside base of the cowl. These are the only body mounts that use a nut and bolt. The others are all cage nuts.

Disconnect the speedometer cable so that it hangs free. Disconnect the plug to the backup switch, if so equipped. On an automatic Corvette, disconnect the shifter rod from the trans, neutral safety switch and the hoses from the trans cooler.

Remove the wire harness with three connections (1/4, 5/16 and 9/16) from the starter motor at the solenoid. Reattach the battery cable to the 9/16 post, and replace the ¼ and 5/16 nuts. Feed the harness back to the body and secure it with a wire tie.

Remove the emergency cable from the adjuster sleeve and make sure that it is not attached to the frame and that it hangs free from the body.

Remove the 4 cable seatbelt supports. Remove The nut and cable from the stud located on each side of the bottom rear of the Driveshaft tunnel. There is also a bolt on each side at the rear corner of the frame, just before the front of the rear wheel. Remove the bolt and let the cable hang.

Remove the 2 rear body mounts located behind the rear wheels, inside the wheelhouse.

CORVETTE BODY LIFT

A Corvette coupe requires 5 lift points, the very rear of each rocker panel, right at the front cowl body mount and the engine lift at the radiator support. The 4 lift points on the main body should all wind up at a central lift point in the center of the roof. The engine lift will be used to lift the front, and to balance the load. Professional body straps should be used that have at least a 2” wide reverse lift point. The cradle should be attached to the engine lift with a chain bolted to the upper radiator hold down holes.

A Corvette convertible uses the same lifting method, but also requires a support for the rear so that the door jams are not broken. The best way to do this is with door jam supports that bolt to the door hinges and the top support brackets. This can also be done by attaching 2 more strap to the central lift point, and running them back under each set of taillights. Pressure must constantly be kept on these straps to avoid damage.

Attach the 4 (Coupe) or 6 (Convertible) Lift Straps to a lifting device located at a point (as shown in Picture # XXXX A & B) above the center of the Roof. Attach a Motor Lift (Cherry Picker) to the top (as shown in Picture # XXXX) of the Radiator Support, through the holes that hold the top shroud Bracket.

WATCH FOR A FUTURE PICTURE
Body Lifting Device - Picture # XXXX A

WATCH FOR A FUTURE PICTURE
Body Lifting Device - Picture # XXXX B

WATCH FOR A FUTURE PICTURE
Motor Lifting Device - Picture # XXXX

Start lifting the Body equally from all points. If the Body does not start to separate from the frame, or is hung up at one spot, as you begin to take weight off of it - STOP - check to see if anything was forgotten and is still connected. If the Body begins to separate from the frame, raise the rear of the Body a little more than the front. While doing this, check that the bottom of the rear fenders and the rear body panel is clearing the frame. Also check the Gas Tank Wires to make sure that they are free as you lift the body. As you lift the Body higher, increase the angle until the front of the car is approx. 5 inches lower than the rear. It may be necessary to slide the body slightly forward to allow the Radiator Support to clear the frame. As you continue to lift, level the body and keep checking for things that can get caught or trapped. This would include; Radiator Support, engine compartment wiring, Brake Lines, Speedometer Cable, Shifter, E-Brake Cable, Gas Tank Wires, antenna ground wire and Seat Belt anchors. Continue lifting until the Body is high enough to roll the Chassis out from the rear of the car.

As soon as the Frame is clear, document the Body Cushion and Shim Locations – Be very careful to note and document the number of Shims at each Body mount position. Remove and store them individually, mark the Body Mount position on a Zip-Lok Bag, and keep them separated as #1R, #1L, #2R, #2L, #3R, #3L, #4R and #4L. Documentation at this point will make the Body alignment much easier when re-installing the Body.

Chassis Preparation – Original

Refurbish Original Style Chassis as desired.

Position the Body Mount Cushion, with the original number of Shims on each Cushion that were present when the Body was removed. Secure them with Masking Tape at each Body Mount Location.

Re-install the Original Chassis by following the instructions in the Remounting Body Section of this Manual.

Chassis Preparation – CHASSIS CONCEPTS – C2/C4 Replacement Chassis

Install desired Driveline completely, including all components, Adapters and Brackets. It is much easier to do this with the body off, while you have access to the open chassis. These Items would include; Motor, all Motor Accessories (Pumps, Pulleys, Belts, A/C, etc.) Trans, Driveshaft, Clutch Z bar and Linkage, Shifter, Battery and shield, Exhaust System, P/S Hoses and Trans Fluid Lines.

If standard trans, fill with gear lube.

Install Differential Adapter as shown in Pictures #XXXX thru XXXX as described in the directions included with the Chassis Concepts C5 Differential Adapter.

If Torque Tube and Transaxle are used, please refer to that sperate section.

Fill rear differential with GM Positraction Fluid and Additive only.

Install Steering Linkage Adapters supplied with the Chassis. Start with a 9/16 X DD Swivel. Attach the 9/16 end to the Borg Warner Rack. Next, Slip one end of the 8 ½ in. DD Bar into the DD end. Mount the Red Heim Joint Adapter to the front of the Drivers Side Motor Mount Main Bolt. Slide Heim Joint onto the DD Bar and install in top hole of the Red Heim Joint Adapter with the Thin Stop Nut and Flat Washer on top, and a Flat Washer and Lock Nut on the bottom (as shown in Picture #XXXX). Now install the DD X DD Swivel to the top end of the DD Bar. Adjust Linkage for proper clearance and tighten all Nuts and Allen Bolts. You will complete the rest of this procedure after the Body is in place.

Install E-Brake Kit. Determine the type of Kit required and the location of the Hand Brake. Install Kit as per Manufacturers Directions (see Picture # XXXX for suggestions).

WATCH FOR A FUTURE PICTURE
E - Brake Installation - Picture # XXXX A

Install Gas Tank Mounting Bracket and Gas Tank. Hook up all Gas Lines.

Install lower front bumper brackets.

Install spare tire tub, pan, lock and hardware.

Position the Body Mount Cushions (Polyurethane is suggested) in the proper locations (as shown in Picture # XXXX). You will reinstall the Shims, as the Body is lowered.

WATCH FOR A FUTURE PICTURE
Body Mount Position - Picture # XXXX A

CHECK EVERY NUT, BOLT, SCREW, BRACKET AND STRAP THAT YOU CAN SEE – YOU CAN NEVER BE TOO SAFE !!!!!

Trim and modify rear floor as shown in Pictures #XXXX thru XXXX

Install "Big Tank Floor" as shown in Pictures #XXXX thru XXXX

If Torque Tube and Transaxle are used, please refer to that sperate section for body modifications.

You are now ready to re-install the Body onto the New Street Shop, inc. Chassis.

This is basically a reverse of what you have done so far.

CHECK FOR CLEARANCE EVERY STEP OF THE WAY !!!!!

Roll the Chassis back under the Body. Slowly lower the body down level until it is about a foot from the Frame. Lower the front approx. 5 inches, and keep it slightly forward until the radiator support is 1 inch from the point that it mounts to the frame. You must check the following items as the Body nears their locations, to make sure that they are going in place; Shifter, Speedometer Cable, E-Brake Cable, Seat Belt Anchors, gas tank wires and antenna ground. Begin to lower the rear and level the Body, while moving the Body to the rear to line up the mounts, until it rests properly on the front two radiator support mounting holes.

Do not continue to the next step unless the weight is off of the lifting devices, and the Body is resting squarely on the 4 (Coupe, #s 1 & 3) or 6 (Convertible, #s 1, 2 &3)) main Body mounts. The front radiator support mounts and the rear Body mounts should not be touching (putting weight on) the Chassis. These mounts will be tightened after the #1, 2 &3 Body mounts are secure. The priority now is to get a solid and level mount of the main Body. The rear, #4 mount will be dealt with, once the main Body is secure.

The Coupe Body – This Body is more rigid, and easier to align. Inspect the #1 & 3 Body mount cushions and shims. Do they feel tight? Can you move them or twist them around? If the answer is yes, you will have to reposition the shims. The Coupe Body should sit flat and even on these 4 mounting positions. If your doors were aligned properly prior to removing the Body, they should have the same fit and open and close correctly. If they do not, you must correct this problem before going any further. Check your main Body shims and make sure that the Radiator Support and #4 Body mount are not interfering. It is now time to shim the #4 Body mount. The purpose of this procedure is only to take up the space between the mount and the Body, not to lift or lower the position. It is OK to raise the Body off the mount in order to insert the shim, but the shim should only be a spacer – not a wedge. Now you will do the same with the Radiator Support. Remember that this mount controls the up and down, as well as the left to right height of the front end. A good rule of thumb is to put enough shims in place for zero pressure on the frame, and then add one more shim to each side of the radiator support mount. Any opposite pressure can cause the fiberglass to fatigue and crack. Insert all of the Body bolts, washers and cushions in the Radiator Support and Body mounts. Gently tighten the 4 main body mounts a little at a time in a criss cross manner. When tight, the doors should open and close properly. Tighten the #4 Body mounts and the Radiator Support, and once again check the doors.

The Convertible Body – The procedure is the same as the Coupe except for the #2 & 4 Body mounts. The key is still to get the main Body flat and level using the shims. The #2 mount must be a tight fit, prior to tightening the Body mount bolt, just like the #1 &3 mounts. You will add shims to the #4 mount to adjust the top to bottom gap on the rear of the doors. This adjustment will also affect the way that the doors will operate.

UNDER THE REAR OF THE CORVETTE

Hook up the gas tank wires.

Hook up the antenna wires and ground

Install the rear Bumper Brackets and bumpers. Replace the gas tank overflow hose through the lower right rear bumper.

Replace the rear lower panel and install the exhaust tips (if under car exhaust) and license plate trim.

UNDER SIDES OF THE CORVETTE

Re-install #3 Body mount cover plate.

Re-install rocker molding's or side pipe covers if so equipped.

Re-install carpet sill plates

UNDER THE CORVETTE

Re-install front inner and outer splash pans.

Re-attach Starter wires

Re-install speedometer cable

Re-attach neutral safety switch and transmission linkage and cooler lines, if the Corvette is an automatic.

Re-attach back up light switch, if so equipped.

Attach E-Brake cable.

The seat belt cables must be modified to fit. The easiest way is to attach another length of cable to the existing end, and run it under the crossmember to the front differential mounting bracket. This end of the cable can be secured using cable clamps. The outer cables can be secured in the same manner by looping a new piece of cable through the existing end, and around the corner frame (as shown in Picture #XXXX) brace.

WATCH FOR A FUTURE PICTURE
Securing Seat Belts - Picture # XXXX A

UNDER FRONT OF THE CORVETTE

Install front bumper brackets.

Re-install front grille.

Install front bumpers and license plate bar

ON THE INSIDE OF THE CORVETTE

Re-install steering column. With the CHASSIS CONCEPTS Replacement Chassis, we recommend a Flaming Rivers, tilt, Corvette direct replacement column (information is in the resource guide). Place the lower portion of the column through the firewall. Before securing the column to the “Z” bar, you must install the 9/16 X DD swivel joint to the end of the shaft, attaching the 9/16 end. Loosely install the column. Measure and cut the DD bar to the desired length. Be very careful, not to cut it short (like the guy who said, “I cut it 3 times, and it is still too short”). Remember that the DD bar must fit inside the end of each swivel. Notch the cut end of the DD bar to match the uncut end. This is necessary to allow the allen bolt to secure the swivel. Secure the steering column and all joints.

Re-install shifter boot, console plate, T handle and shifter ball.

UNDER THE HOOD OF THE CORVETTE

Insert inner fender dust shield into upper “A” Arms.

Re-install the radiator, hoses, fan and shroud.

Hook up A/C, if so equipped.

Attach engine harnesses, as removed. Crate motors and transmissions may require special computers, switches, throttle control and wiring. Check with the supplier for those instructions.

Re-install oil gauge line.

Attach tach drive cable.

Attach throttle rod and spring.

Attach clutch linkage and return spring.

Install SS brake adapter lines from the new proportioning valve to the master cylinder (must be a dual line unit, 67 up).

Reinstall hood and hood prop.

BATTERY CABLES – The very last thing to be hooked up. Make sure that everything is off – key, lights, etc. Connect negative cable, and all additional ground wires. Touch the positive cable to the terminal, and check for spark. If everything is off, there should be no spark. If there is a constant spark, you need to check that everything is off, and that no wires were pinched or cut as the Body was being lowered. If no spark is present, connect the positive cable and check all of the electrical operations of the Corvette. DO NOT start the motor until the service procedure has been performed.

SERVICE PROCEDURE FOR THE NEW CORVETTE CHASSIS

Fill master cylinder and bleed brakes.

Fill and check all engine fluids – oil, antifreeze, automatic trans fluid and brake fluid. Start motor and check for leaks. Allow engine to reach operating temperature. Shut down and check again for leaks.

Charge A/C if so equipped.

Align front and rear suspension.